Magyar Magic

"There is such a constant variety and movement in the streets, such a blending of the Oriental with the European and such a holiday look about the whole population that it is impossible to feel ennui in the chief city of the Magyars." So wrote Julia Pardoe in 1840, and she was certainly right in saying that one could spend many weeks exploring Budapest without tiring of her charms...

If, unlike Julia, you're not blessed with the job of travel writer and have only a few days for sightseeing then you'll want to prioritise your time to take in the key attractions. A natural place to start your exploration is on the hilly outcrops of Buda, where visitors can marvel at the Royal Palace and from this high vantage point enjoy views of the Danube and Pest sprawling below. An afternoon walking around the peaceful avenues that criss-cross the castle district is time well spent indeed, and as you lose yourself in this peaceful oasis it's hard to imagine you're in a city of 2 million people.

Take a walk across the Chain Bridge however, at the foot of Buda Hill, and you'll find yourself in an entirely different metropolis - the bustling, beguiling Pest-side. The flavour and attractions of a big city are all packed into this energetic side of the river, and yet somehow a laidback vibe prevails - it seems the locals always have time for a coffee or beer in the hundreds of charming cafes and outdoor gardens (known in Budapest as 'kertek').

Above: Scope out the Hungarian Parliament

Below: Count Istvn Szechenyi - the Greatest Hungarian.